音乐大师西蒙娜•杨最心仪的澳大利亚五大旅游胜地 – Maestro Simone Young – My Top 5 Places in Australia

 

获得澳大利亚勋章的音乐大师西蒙娜•杨是世界顶尖歌剧和交响乐演奏团指挥家之一。她在指挥台上的优雅、游刃有余的力度及超强的敏锐度让她享有“超级指挥家”的美誉,也启发了她的交响乐团。她非常善于演绎瓦格纳、施特劳斯、马勒、布鲁克纳、布拉姆斯及一些现代作曲家的作品。

Maestro Simone Young - photo Klaus Lefebvre

Maestro Simone Young – photo Klaus Lefebvre

人们很容易回想起来著名指挥家的形象,也有很多传奇人物深深印在了大众的心中。但是其中女性指挥家却寥寥无几。在为数不多的女性指挥家中,Alondra de la Parra是这样评价西蒙娜•杨的,“当她站在国际的指挥台上时,她便在荒原中开辟出了一条路。”

Maestro Simone Young

Maestro Simone Young

用西蒙娜•杨自己的话来说,她出身在悉尼的一个非音乐世家,这个在曼利小岛的海滩边长大的小女孩受邀去指挥世界上最具盛名的交响乐团,她也成为了国际上广受好评的指挥家。她曾指挥过维也纳爱乐乐团、柏林爱乐乐团以及伦敦爱乐乐团。音乐名家杨迄今为止已经在世界上所有顶尖的歌剧院内指点过江山,这包括纽约的大都会歌剧院、维也纳国家歌剧院、伦敦的皇家歌剧院以及国立巴黎歌剧团。

在过去的十年内,她身兼双值,同时担任汉堡国家歌剧院和汉堡国家爱乐交响乐团的艺术和音乐总监。

2001至2003年期间,她担任澳大利亚歌剧团的艺术和音乐总监。

 

西蒙娜的五大旅游胜地:

 

曼利海滩 – Manly Beach

Manly beach, Sydney - australia.com

Manly beach, Sydney – australia.com

我就是热爱这个地方,虽然这个地方有时候没那么讨人喜欢,比如雨天有点儿讨人厌、周六的晚上又有点乱,但是当太阳出来、沙滩上吹着和煦微风的时候这里真的是非常的棒!

 

最近有一次从欧洲回到家乡,航班早的出奇,所有乘客的状态都是那种只有做了24个小时飞机的人才会有的灰头土脸。我没有叫醒我的老母亲,我让出租车司机直接开车到了曼利海滩。此时的晨曦还未露脸,就连路边的咖啡店也还未开始营业,我只是静静地看着太阳慢慢升起,我发现我的呼吸放松了,压力和疲倦也退去了,整个人沉静了下来。不久咖啡店开始营业,很明显,这里的顾客群非常的稳定,微微打着寒颤的冲浪者排着队点着咖啡,听上去的感觉很像加州故事里的场景(L.A Story),只是那些咖啡的种类到底是什么呢?就这样,一天的生活就开始了。慢跑的人给赶轮渡的上班族让路,也给上学的小朋友们让路,这些孩子们互相嬉戏打闹着,比较着最新的朋友圈状态。我对自己说,第二天一定要从South Steyne跑到Fairy Bower。如果你真的跑这条路线,不要忘记看看路边岩石中金色的小人像,或者索性带上你潜水的工具,自己去水下一探究竟。运动之后,绝对要坐在海滩边吃着鱼薯,晃着双腿,但是一定要小心那些海鸥,他们会从你的指尖把薯条抢走。

 

西澳宁格鲁礁 – Ningaloo Reef  Western Australia

Ningaloo Reef Western Australia

Ningaloo Reef Western Australia

我飞到了Exmouth,看到如此迷你的机场我会心一笑,钻进租来的小车,提前给我的绿色露营地和酒店打了电话,然后便出发了。很快我便发现我驾驶的小车是视线范围内唯一的车,路旁的房子都为我让路,熟悉的土地一望无垠,向我诉说着无尽的欢迎。一旦进入国家公园(这里的入园费是付到一个“自愿付款箱”里的,再点一个赞!),路上三三两两的袋鼠和鸸鹋就成为了我到达目的地前路上仅有的行人。我扔下包,没几分钟就跳进水里了,水下的礁石和海洋生物让我惊叹不已。

 

Whale Shark Ningaloo - australiancoralcoast

Whale Shark Ningaloo – australiancoralcoast

是的,我和鲸鲨一起游泳,这是我永远不会忘记的一段经历。在开阔的海域里和水中的大型绅士同游令我激动万分但同时又心存敬畏。

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

新南威尔士州邦达奴 – Bundanoon New South Wales

Bundanoon, Southern Highlands, NSW

Bundanoon, Southern Highlands, NSW

有一个我还会再去的地方,而且这个地方距离悉尼非常近,那就是只要一天就可以往返的邦达奴(Bundanoon)。下一次我会体面的去那里旅行,住在有大壁炉和提供美食餐单的酒店。上一次去的时候,我们就像大家年经时那样,住在基督教青年会(YMCA)、骑着两人自行车去探索国家公园,一切都是那么的浪漫。

整个南面高地有很多可看的地方,据我所知从Bowral开车到袋鼠谷(Kangaroo Valley)是风光最好的一段路程,只要带着你的高速相机就行。

 

新南威尔士西部 – The West (of NSW, that is!)

West region of NSW - David Gordon

West region of NSW – David Gordon

我们的家离曼利岛不远,家门口台阶下的沙滩、广阔的地平线和不断变化颜色的乡村风光则是另一种异域风情。黎明时分鸟儿的歌唱不仅让我听得身心愉悦,也陶冶了我的音乐情操。

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Wattle -redzaustralia.com

Wattle -redzaustralia.com

但是现在是野花开放的季节,尤其是金合欢花,这些花儿抓住了我们的心,让我们一次又一次的回来。虽然在Yeoval和Cumnock中间有一段土路(好吧,当时是1982年),那里的金合欢花是非常漂亮的。

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

新南威尔士州的悉尼 – Sydney NSW

Lavender Bay Ferry Wharf - pbase.com

Lavender Bay Ferry Wharf – pbase.com

现在回到海边,回到悉尼,回到我最爱的地方之一——麦克马洪斯角(McMahons Point),在新年前夜或者有其它庆典活动的时候,最好不要去这里,因为人实在是太多了。但是其它时候,这里绝对是欣赏悉尼大桥和歌剧院壮观景色的好地方。通常来说,当我从市区经过大桥去城北的时候,我会稍微绕道一下,在那里的停车区稍作停留。我的女儿们则把这里选为她们吃三明治、喝奶昔、感叹海港人生百态的好地方之一。如果不赶时间的话,可以在这个区域的小街上散个步,看看那一栋栋挨在一起的历史老屋,看看这些风韵犹存的古建筑。你也可以把车停在旁边或者到薰衣草湾(Lavender Bay)码头的渡轮边走走,不管在草坪上还是码头上野餐都是个不错的想法。白天的时候这里异常忙碌,但神奇的是,在夜幕即将落下的时候,这里的空气是如此的柔软、码头里停泊着的船儿随着潮水温柔的节奏也敲打出有韵律的铃声。噢,我已经开始想家了……

 

想要了解音乐大师杨以及今后更多的表演,请访问 SimoneYoung.com

 

安娜·高兹沃斯 (Anna Goldsworthy) 最心仪的澳洲五大旅游胜地

安娜·高兹沃斯(Anna Goldsworthy)天赋秉异且一直致力于参加各种高难度的活动。今年她就参加了以下各种活动:舞台剧《钢琴课》(Piano Lessons) 巡演,她不仅参与演出而且还在其中演奏钢琴;作为天使三重奏(Seraphim Trio)组合一员共同演出贝多芬钢琴三重奏;还有她的卡巴莱演出《Cole》也将在阿德莱德卡巴莱节(Cabaret Festival)上进行首演。今年十月,她将第六次担任“神仙港春季音乐节”(Port Fairy Spring Music Festival)的艺术总监。

作为享有盛名的钢琴独奏家,安娜不仅在澳大利亚也在世界各地进行演出,范围之广,可见一斑。作为一名室内演奏家,她也是著名的天使三重奏(Seraphim Trio)组合一员。该组合成立至今已有二十一年,以首演澳大利亚作曲家作品而闻名。

安娜同时还以传记家、散文家、剧作家及剧本作者而闻名。2009年安娜出版了她的第一本书《钢琴课》,这本动人的自传描述了她成为音乐家的历程,也刻画了一名极富天赋的学生与其严格但富魅力的老师埃莉诺拉·斯万(Eleanora Sivan)之间的关系。这本畅销书被列入了众多奖项的候选名单并获得了“2010年澳大利亚图书行业新进者”(Australian Book Industry Newcomer of the Year)奖项。

成为母亲的她在其新的回忆录《欢迎来到你的新生活》中以热切、诙谐且尖锐的洞察力获得了好评。

欲阅读更多关于安娜的内容,请登陆她的网站www.annagoldsworthy.com

照片由Nicholas Purcell提供

Flinders Ranges South Australia

Flinders Ranges
South Australia

弗林德斯山脉

Flinders Ranges

弗林德斯山脉是很多孩子露营的地方。对于我来说这里是最具有澳大利亚特色的地方。这体现在它整体的色调、静谧及令人惊奇的各种声音,还有那一直挂在天边的星星。

Melbourne, CBD

Melbourne, CBD

墨尔本

Melbourne

我在墨尔本待了17年,在这里我遇见了我的另一半尼古拉斯(Nicholas),这里也是我两个儿子出生的地方,所以我对这里有情感上的寄托。但客观上来讲,这里也绝对是一个很棒的城市,因为它满足所有的必备条件,在这里你可以听到好的音乐、喝道好的咖啡、看到好的作品以及交到好朋友。

Port Fairy Victoria

Port Fairy
Victoria

仙女港

Port Fairy

在仙女港春季音乐节表演的时候我爱上了这个地方。在这个瑰宝小镇上有着无价的室内音乐节。这里也被投票为“2012年世界最适宜居住的地方”。6年前我因为种种机缘巧合成为音乐节的艺术总监,其中很重要的一个原因就是我觉得仙女港注定可以成为我的第二故乡。今年年末我会上交这个重职,但是我已经开始给自己找理由再来这个地方了。

Noosa Queensland

Noosa
Queensland

努萨 Noosa

自从我们有了小孩,度假的方式就变得不一样了。从前我从没有想过这里会是一个令人激动的度假胜地,但是在这度过的两个假期让我改变了想法,现在我们正在计划再去一次。去年我们去努萨的时候正好赶上当地的长周末节(Noosa Long Weekend Festival),我们非常享受那里的卡巴莱表演还有那里的海滩,真是一个两全其美的组合。

Epsom House Tasmania

Epsom House
Tasmania

塔斯马尼亚爱普生小屋

Epsom House, Pontville, Tasmania

我们去爱普生小屋已经有很多年头了,并且非常享受在那里的宴会厅听音乐会,重新翻修过的小屋给人与世隔绝的纯净之感,里面还有全国最好的音响设备之一。这间小屋就像是一颗来自优雅年代的时间胶囊,前来的参观者无不感到内心的满足感,特别是现在小屋的所有者杰奎(Jacqui)和杰夫·罗伯森(Geoff Robertson)给这里新增了两个英式花园。

旅游小贴士:

-关掉你的电子设备

-尽可能准备好一条“不在办公室”的信息

-随身带好一本书

*****

澳大利亚维多利亚州莫宁顿半岛地标性彩色盒子房

Did you know that women are the reason we have those iconic, brilliantly coloured bathing boxes on the beaches of the Mornington Peninsula in Victoria?

At the end of the 19th Century and through the early 20th, the city fathers tried desperately to stave off the shocking prospect of uncovered female flesh. They feared that if women were allowed to undress and change into their neck-to-knee bathing suits on the beaches, public immorality would inevitably follow.

The city fathers had already tried to divide some beaches into separate bathing areas for men and women following “indecent bathing during a heat wave”.

Their battle for respectability and decorum succeeded to the extent that many boxes were in fact built.  Now only 1300 survive and no new boxes or boatsheds are allowed, with the exception of places such as Brighton Beach. For that reason their value has skyrocketed, in some instances fetching more than A$350,000. Tightly held, the families that own them often pass them down through the generations.

Public morality no longer being of concern, they are now mostly used to have a good time at the beach. In summer, you will see owners sitting in the shade of the open box, deckchairs and tables arranged comfortably with food and cold drinks at hand, contemplating the sea only metres from their door. Or you will see them dragging their kayaks from the boxes, a few steps across the sand, and into the sparkling sea for a row along the bay. The owners are spared having to pack their equipment on cars and trailers to return home at the end of the day. But they do have to maintain the boxes in good order and pay fees for the privilege of owning a beach box.

We can enjoy them too. They add a riot of colour and cheerfulness to the beach in any season. So take a stroll along any one of the 26 beautiful beaches of the Mornington Peninsula, from Mount Eliza to Portsea, where you can feast your eyes on these iconic structures.

The guide below shows the places you can find these beach boxes and the number at each location.

Take a look at the slideshow to see some of these beach boxes.

Photographs and editing by Augustine Zycher

HOW TO GET THERE

The Mornington Peninsula is approximately an hour from Melbourne’s CBD and is easily accessible via the Peninsula Link freeway.

 

mornington-pen-map

View Larger Map


 

 

 

乌鲁鲁(艾尔斯岩石)— 澳大利亚的红色中部

 

At the end of May 2017, Uluru stood as a silent sentinel over an historic summit of the First Nations of Australia. They had come from across the continent and the Torres Strait Islands, 250 community leaders. At the end of 3 days of deliberation, they issued a powerful and beautifully crafted document, entitled Statement From The Heart. It rejected symbolic recognition. Speaking from the “ torment of powerlessness” it demanded a constitutionally enshrined Indigenous voice in government decision-making. It also called for a Makarrata Commission to supervise agreements with government and lead the way to a treaty.

And so another dimension was added to the political, cultural and spiritual significance of Uluru.

Uluru is one of the few places in the world to have been awarded dual World Heritage recognition  – for both its outstanding natural values and outstanding cultural values.

On our trip to the Red Centre of Australia, we found extraordinary beauty, cultural richness, and new perspectives on this iconic Australian landmark.

We began with the perspective on Uluru from the distance,  at both sunrise and sunset. In the darkness of early morning, we watched as a dark shape outlined by the first rays of the sun began to loom over the flat plain. By day, we saw a monolith, 9.4k in circumference, rising up 348 metres from the semi-arid desert that surrounds it. Both the rock and the sand are stained a deep red by the iron oxide in the earth. Late afternoon, we watched from afar as the sunset coated Uluru pink, then rich purple colours.

But nothing really prepared us for the shock of seeing Uluru up close.

It is not a uniform lump of rock. As you walk into it, you discover oases with vegetation, waterholes, waterfalls, caves with rock art, gullies and rocks sculptured into remarkable shapes. Changes of light, shadow and perspective bring with them continuous shifts in appearance, an impression of movement at odds with the idea of a stolid monolith.

In the tranquility of the Kantju Gorge, we were enclosed by towering rocks that spectacularly changed from yellow to gold, orange to ochre, pink to purple, and brown to grey.

This breathtaking physical perspective is only a part of Uluru. We began to see that there is another more compelling perspective. We began to learn about the Anangu, the Aboriginal people who are the traditional custodians of Uluru and the country around it, and we pay our respects to them.  Their traditional languages are Pitjantjatjara and Yankunitjatjara. Carbon dating on caves, shows that indigenous people have lived in this area for at least 22,000 years, and possibly 30,000. Elsewhere in Australia, there is evidence of Aboriginal habitation dating back to around 60,000 years, making them one of the oldest human societies on earth.

Traditional custodianship is quite different from our concept of land ownership. It is not personal possession, but public, common responsibility to care for the land, its flora and fauna, and to carry on that care from generation to generation.

For thousands of years, the indigenous people have passed down the knowledge of how to survive on the land and how to survive as a community. But they have not written it down. There are no written texts. There is no sacred literature. They have no Bible, Koran, Sutras, Vedas or Chinese Classics that have guided the survival of other peoples.

It is an oral tradition that has sustained the Aboriginal people with a strong culture in Australia for 60,000 years, in some of the harshest terrain on earth.

The landscape is their sacred text.  The land is endowed with sanctity. Aboriginal spiritual heritage, history, laws, culture, knowledge, geography are all embodied in the land.  They read their land – its shape, its contours, its plants, animals and birds. And they express this connection to the land through songs, stories, ceremonies and art.

The foundation of the culture is called Tjukurpa – Creation – when the ancestors, changing shapes between humans, animals, birds and spirits, roamed the formless land. Their travels, battles and experiences gave shape to the land and created its distinctive topography and all life. As well as  creation stories, Tjukurpa is a body of knowledge governing human behaviour and care of country.

According to Tjukurpa, Uluru was formed by Two Boys. They were playing at the Kantju waterhole, piling up mud until it was the size of Uluru. The long channels and gullies on the southern side of Uluru were formed when the Two Boys slid down from the top on their bellies, dragging their fingers through the mud.

The python woman, Kuniya and the poisonous snake man, Liru, are other ancestors who shaped Uluru and left visible marks. Signs in the rock chronicle their struggle and the places where the grieving Kuniya struck Liru dead in vengeance for spearing her nephew.

When visiting Uluru, you are not just walking amongst boulders and rocks. You are following the path of the creation stories that the Anangu continue to celebrate. The spirits of the ancestors are believed to still dwell here so it is considered sacred, and parts of Uluru are closed to the public.

The initiation of the young into the complexities of Tjukurpa continues. And in caves in Uluru, grandfathers pass down knowledge to young boys, drawing on the cave walls as a teacher in any other classroom would illustrate on a blackboard. In separate caves, women elders pass on women’s business to young girls.

It is an ancient culture that is still alive and still defines the indigenous people.

Another new perspective we had on Uluru was looking up to the desert sky – the stark blue of the sky by day and the sheer brilliance of the night sky. Since tourist and local accommodation is concentrated in a particular area, the township of Yulara, electric lighting does not blot out the stars as it does in cities.  You can look up and clearly see endless swathes of stars shining directly above you.

Uluru is within the Uluru – Kata Tjuta National Park which covers 327,414 acres of Australia’s desert outback. In 1985 title deeds to the land were handed back to the Anangu, and it is managed jointly by the traditional owners and Parks Australia.

The Cultural Centre in the National Park is very beautiful. Built from mud bricks, it represents the two ancestral snakes, Kuniya and Liru. Inside, there are outstanding exhibits about Anangu culture, and you can purchase original indigenous artworks. The bookshop also provides information on a variety of walks around Uluru. Different tour companies also offer tours.

Since Uluru is a sacred site, climbing the rock is disrespectful. It is also dangerous, so visitors are requested not to do so.

The best times to go are during the Australian winter and spring, when the nights may be freezing, but the days are mild. In summer, temperatures can be extremely hot with outdoor activity limited to the morning hours.

The hotels all belong to one group so there is not much competition, but there is a range of accommodation from camping to 5-star tents and hotels.

Our photos were taken only where permissible. To see each photo separately go to our Gallery page.

Photography – Rosalie Zycher & Augustine Zycher

Video editor – Augustine Zycher

Music – Albare  CD  ‘The Road Ahead’  title track www.albare.info

 

 

 

 

Ningaloo Reef

澳大利亚尼加卢礁


在澳大利亚的海域里我们可以寻找到这些壮丽的珊瑚礁。不过它们不是来自我们所熟知的澳大利亚东海岸的大堡礁,而是来自西海岸的尼加卢礁。着实奇怪的是,虽然这片礁脉在去年被评为世界遗产,但是却鲜为人知。

尼加卢是世界公认的最壮观的珊瑚礁群之一同时也是最后一片依旧保持原生态的珊瑚礁群。在尼加卢栖息着220种珊瑚以及500种热带鱼类。我对于这样一片拥有富饶的独特海洋生物并鲜为人知的地带充满好奇。

带着这份好奇,我潜入海底与它的鲨鱼,大海龟,黄貂鱼,儒艮以及无数令人惊艳色彩斑斓的鱼群一起畅游。

 

事实上,尼加卢是世界上最长的近岸礁之一。因为它怀抱澳大利亚多岩的西北海岸线远郊一角,所以乘船观赏实为上佳之选。

我在尼加卢航海(Sail Ningaloo)处为自己订了一个为期5天的52英尺双体船航行。这次旅行我偶遇了一位来自英国的独立航海探险者—凯特。她是唯一的一位同行者,也是一名女性,她航行经历广泛,足迹遍及北极、南极以及加拉巴戈斯群岛。她此行的目的就是在珊瑚礁中潜水。
我选择了用通气管潜水。在此之前我从未尝试过通气管潜水,不过这并无大碍。潜水教练指导我穿好潜水服并教会我使用通气管,然后我便滑下轮船跟着他们潜入海底。

青绿色的海水通透无比,峡谷中精巧玲珑的珊瑚霎时映入我的眼帘。与此同时,我的周身也游弋着一群形态各异五彩斑斓的鱼群,它们的队形千变万化令人称奇。

一直以来,我都迷恋在自然纪录片中看到的那些绿色的大海龟。现在我万分激动因为终于有幸可以在他们中间畅游一番甚至可以和他们中的一些近到咫尺。直到他们发现了我,拍打着鳍肢匆匆游远。这时有两头儒艮慢慢游近,我异常兴奋,因为这些体型奇特的生物真的是难得一见。
nigaloo reef sailing

不过鲨鱼、黄貂鱼就可怕多了。虽然他们告诉我珊瑚鲨对人不感兴趣,但是当几头珊瑚鲨急速向我游来的时候我还是不禁屏息凝神直到他们游走。而黄貂鱼则是非常难觅的,因为他们会躲藏在海底纯白的沙子中,然后突然跃起,抖落身上的沙子,如离弦之箭般迅速游远。

当我们在甲板上闲逛时,我们就会看着鲸鱼游过,看着它们从呼吸孔中喷射出水柱。此时正值白鲸和座头鲸在6000平方米的尼加卢海域进行他们一年一度的迁徙。一天,一头母座头鲸和她的孩子靠近了我们的船。凯特和我立刻停止了讲话生怕把他们吓跑,而事实恰好相反,我们越对着他们说话,他们就越靠近,最后母座头鲸游到她孩子的身下将他驼在背上让他更好地看看我们。真是一群高智商又充满好奇的动物呵。

 

每天我可以用通气管潜水两次,每天我都看到完全不同排布的珊瑚丛,甲壳类动物,哺乳动物和鱼。

当我不在海底时,我就躺在甲板上读书,时不时地看看有没有鲸鱼,蝠鲼鳐,海豚或是海龟。

躺在我船舱床铺上最美的事便是看着初升的旭日慢慢点亮舷窗外的大海。

这是一次适合女性的旅游。即便我做的是以前从未做过的事,但是我感到安全、舒适而且也不感觉别扭或者感觉像是一个女人自己出游。这是一个去亲近和享受这个世界的这份独特美丽的绝好方式。

 

备注:最后一刻订的确认航程有的时候会被取消。

尼加卢航海(Sail Ningaloo)最近刚获得了由西澳旅游局颁发的生态旅游银奖和探险旅游铜奖。

 

潜水中看到的珊瑚丛中的儒艮、海龟、黄貂鱼、鲨鱼以及色彩绚丽的鱼类,请在影片中欣赏。

感谢尼加卢航海(Sail Ningaloo)和Prue Johnson的海底照相及摄影。Augustine Zycher编辑


更多信息:http://www.sailningaloo.com.au
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亚瑟港, 塔斯马尼亚 – Port Arthur, Tasmania

 

亚瑟港是一个充满矛盾的地方。

 

当你第一眼看见它时,它给你的印象也许是那些伫立在起伏山峦上的英式豪宅和在错落在田园诗画般海港边郁郁葱葱的花园。但事实上,亚瑟港是英格兰最可怕的罪犯流放地之一。这里被它的建造者副总督乔治•亚瑟(George Arthur)刻意营造成为一个恐怖的地方。这里是一个对反动者进行强迫劳役和严厉惩罚的地方,那些违反规定的人在这里要受到不间断的监视。罪犯们奴隶般的劳动不仅仅是要建造亚瑟港的公共设施,更是为这个新殖民地建造一个制造大楼。

同时,亚瑟港也是基于闻名遐迩的监狱改造家杰里米•本瑟姆(Jeremy Bentham)的理念而实施创新型刑罚试验的先驱地。这包括通过教导罪犯贸易或者耕种来努力改造他们。

 

亚瑟港本来是用来对付那些最不容易屈服的累犯,那些别的监狱无法制服的犯人。但是只有9岁的小男孩们却也被送来了这里。你也可以参观普尔角(Point Puer),这里是大英帝国建立的第一座青少年监狱。在这座半岛上,年纪小的男孩和成年男性是分开关押的。这些男孩会接受一些教育,学习贸易,但也还是要做体力劳动。

 

建成于1830年,亚瑟港在当时被认为是无法逃离的地方。它坐落于塔斯曼半岛上一处完全与世隔绝的地方,位于霍巴特的主要聚居地的南面,它是由仅仅不到50米宽的带状土地连结到大陆上的,况且这条唯一可能让人逃离的带状土地还被饿坏了的疯狗们所占领。亚瑟港也是完完全全的被海水所包围,只有很少的罪犯懂得如何游泳,并且他们还被告知周围的水域里面有鲨鱼。尽管如此,还是有几个罪犯成功逃脱了。

 

这里曾经是澳大利亚最难进入的地方,现在却成为塔斯马尼亚州最受有课欢迎的地方。

 

 

 

亚瑟港还是一座试验新惩罚措施的监狱。除了一般像鞭笞和节食之类的体罚之外,这里还引进了一系列心理上的惩罚方法。

 

当你步入教堂时,你会被那些木质长椅和洁白的墙面的美丽所震撼到。你不会轻易发现,那些长椅之所以被设计成这样是为了让罪犯在祷告的时候看不到其他人,也不会被别人看到。尽管这些监狱的长椅本该是让罪犯们在精神层面上有所提高,可是他们还是被用来让罪犯们受罪了。

 

这里有一个被叫做“沉默疗法”的感官剥夺体制。罪犯的头上会罩上一块头巾,并且他们不能说一句话,这里的地板和墙壁经加工后也隔绝了一切声音。罪犯还会被长期囚禁在完全黑暗的单间里。许多被关在单间里的罪犯后来都因为缺少声音和光线而被逼疯了。这么看来,旁边的屋子就是精神病院还是很方便的。

A convict ploughing team breaking up new ground at a farm in Port Arthur. Created circa 1838 by an unknown artist. Reprinted as a postcard circa 1926. State Library of Victoria

A convict ploughing team breaking up new ground at a farm in Port Arthur.
Created circa 1838 by an unknown artist. Reprinted as a postcard circa 1926.
State Library of Victoria

 

 

 

 

亚瑟港现在已经被列在了世界遗产名录上。这里的花园和森林里有超过30栋建筑。

花点时间好好的参观一下这里,因为这里有太多可以看的东西了。你需要花时间来感受、欣赏这里的美。去欣赏大自然的美,也去欣赏由罪犯建造的雄伟建筑的美。这里有按原貌忠实还原的建筑,也有一些定期粉刷的建筑,比如像监狱长的住所,医生的住所,监狱以及教堂。穿行于这些重建的建筑你可以身临其境地感受这段历史,因为你不仅可以想象到这些囚犯们的生活,还可以想象到这里军官以及他们妻儿的生活。

 

游览这里有个新颖的方式,那就是当你到达亚瑟港时,你会拿到一张带有真实罪犯姓名的卡片。这样你就能通过这种互动展览的方法来追溯犯人身上发生的故事和体验犯人的命运。这种联系将那些这里居住过、受过苦的以及其他可能被遗忘的人都以独特的方式记录了下来。

 

亚瑟港于1877年关闭了,它所拥有的超过一个世纪的悲惨历史也随之逐渐消失在周围景物的美丽与祥和之中。但是正好20年前,这个田园般地方的平静再一次被暴行和悲剧所打破。

亚瑟港变成了一场大屠杀的发生地。包括游客和员工在内的35人被杀,23人受伤。塔斯马尼亚人马丁•布莱恩特(Martin Bryant)被判有罪并被判处35次终生监禁,不得假释。这场屠杀促使澳大利亚政府随后即颁布了更加严格的枪支管理法令。

 

 

塔斯马尼亚塔斯曼岛游船 – Tasman Island Cruise, Tasmania

 

游船的速度很快,海面也常常是波浪起伏。坐在船的前排,这快感仿佛是乘坐过山车。波涛让你时而上又突然下。如果你坐中间或者靠后的位置,整个航行会比较平稳,当然了,这取决于天气。所以,你可以根据坐在哪里来选择你想要的航行体验。

 

但是,无论你坐在哪里,塔斯马尼亚东南部海岸线的风景是非常壮观的.

媛梦之旅就搭乘了由Pennicott Wilderness Journeys公司承办的塔斯曼岛游船。

看到那令人敬畏又极其美丽的悬崖峭壁,船上的每个人都感觉很兴奋,内心也充满喜悦。

 

但突然间,我能够想象到200年前的人会对这些相同的悬崖峭壁作何感想。这些悬崖是那些来自英格兰的囚犯看到的关于范迪门土地(塔斯马尼亚)的第一样事物,在那里,他们将开始他们一生,或者是几十年的奴役生活。

 

当他们的船驶出迷雾时,映入眼帘的便是高达300米的巨大高墙,这些高墙是南半球最高的。灰色、荒芜,辉绿的岩石历经超过2.9亿年的时间,已经演变成为狭窄的垂直褶 。这些景象对于我们的视觉来说是令人害怕的,但这些景象对于我们来说也是地质奇观。

 

 

我们驰骋于拱门间、穿过径深的海蚀洞、经过低处的空隙和瀑布。我们的船漂浮在躺满无数海豹的岩石平台旁,与世无争的海豹们趴躺在上面,有的好奇地看着我们,有的则不以为然。在船上的另外一种感觉就是自由自在,因为我们从一片海域看到另一片海域—从塔斯曼海到环绕南极洲的南大洋是那么的轻而易举。

 

我们是从霍巴特乘坐公交开始我们的旅程的。当我们穿过鹰颈峡(Eaglehawk Neck)到达亚瑟港(Port Arthur),司机给我们介绍了臭名昭著的景点“恶狗之路”(Dog-line)。在19世纪,从亚瑟港到塔斯马尼亚大陆这一片狭长的土地上,饥饿的恶狗等在路边袭击附近流放地试图逃走的囚犯。

 

我们在一个码头下了船并穿上了红色的防水夹克。然后,我们登上了一艘时尚的生态巡洋舰,它是为适应崎岖的塔斯马尼亚南海岸破涛汹涌的海面而定制的Pennicott公司船只之一。这些长约12.5米的开放式刚性充气艇可分层容纳43名乘客。

 

当我们出海的时候,信天翁在我们的头顶盘旋。塘鹅,海鸥,燕鸥和仙锯鹱扫过浪花。海鹰和鹰隼守望在悬崖的上方。海豚陪伴船只左右,但现在不是观看鲸鱼迁徙的季节。这里的海岸线、多种多样的海洋生物以及海鸟都是塔斯曼国家公园(Tasman National Park)的一部分。

 

多种多样的野生动物、美丽的海岸线以及从一片海域驰骋至另一片海域的快感,都使这次体验成为最奇妙的经历。

这条线路,以及Pennicott Wilderness Jouneys公司运营的到布鲁尼岛(Bruny Island),已经多次赢得了旅游业的奖项。

 

照片: Rosalie Zycher 和 Augustine Zycher

视频编辑:Augustine Zycher

音乐:Albare演唱《No Love Lost 》选自专辑《The Road Ahead》

 

澳大利亚的内陆地区:昆士兰卡穆威尔 派特•麦克弗森

 

 

 

      在澳大利亚,牧牛人是一个标志性的形象,在诗歌、民谣、绘画及文学中得到不朽传颂。

       在澳大利亚的内陆地区,牧牛人就是这里的传奇,这种关系就如同牛仔在美国西部所刻画出的标志性形象那样。

       但是如今在内陆地区,真正的牧牛人已经为数不多了,取而代之的则是公路列车和直升机。

       我的朋友,现年82岁的卢克•麦考尔(Luke McCall)就是那些为数不多的传奇的牧牛人之一。在半个多世纪里,他和成千上万头牛马一齐穿越澳大利亚广袤的大地。他热爱这样的生活,也深爱着他的这些伙伴们。他从未把这样的生活视为流离失所、危险重重或者与世隔绝。

       我的老朋友当卢克•麦考尔经常会讲他牧牛的经历。曾经有一段时间,他连着九个月每天都要坐在马鞍上,每晚都要轮流看守牧群。

       但那些已经是过去的事情了,而现在卢克也是澳大利亚仅剩的不足80位牧牛人之一。每年,这些剩下的牧牛人都会前往昆士兰的卡穆威尔(Camooweal)参加一年一度的“牧牛人扎营节(Drover’s Camp Festival)”。每年八月的第四个星期的周末,他们都会千里迢迢赶来参加这个活动。

       每年我都会开车送我的朋友卢克去参加这个活动。

卢克最近非常喜欢赶时髦。但是对我来说,这是一趟7000公里的旅程,耗时大约三周。我们会住在我能找到最好的汽车旅馆里,同时得保证卢克每天都能有两次透气休息的时间,一次是吃午饭,另一次就是每晚来一顿不错的晚餐。他的那些在内陆的睡在地上、就着茶吃干面包的日子已经一去不复返了。他也发现到他这个年纪,是该稍微享受享受了。

       “牧牛人扎营节”纪念的是卡穆威尔作为全世界规模最大的牧牛群中心所流传下来的传统。当时这里的牧牛人会把1000至1500头牛从大型的牛场(驿站)一路驱赶到澳大利亚西北部的金伯利地区、北领地以及昆士兰。 牛群们走过2000公里,穿越最恶劣、最炎热、最干旱但同时也是澳大利亚最美丽的地区,从西澳到昆士兰州及南部地区,最后到达铁路和肥沃的土地。

       牧牛人有数十月的时间是在旅途中渡过的,他们经历了常人无法想象的困难。他们仅靠牛肉、干面包和茶度日,同时还要与严寒和烈日作斗争。

       这样的牧牛方式持续了一百年。但是在20世纪60年代的时候,这种方式骤然发生了改变。在短短的几年中,牲口的铃铛声就被摩托车的响声所替代了。叫做公路火车的长卡车被引进,从而取代牲口成为拉货进出市场的工具。那些由牧牛人带领牲口驮东西的日子已经变成了历史…… 但是,他们并没有被人们所遗忘。

       在卡穆威尔,人们产生了一种情结。它是由多个元素所组成的,包括一片室外的活动区域、一座纪念牧牛的博物馆、一个放置从前牧牛人肖像画的画廊以及一片扎营的广场。每年,年老的牧牛人都会聚集于此,重现那些值得回忆的日子。成千上万的人都会前来加入他们的队伍,参加各种庆典活动。

       我们欢迎每个人来参观。您可以借此机会见见这些传奇人物,感受一下澳大利亚内陆地区的文化遗产。尽管这个活动一年只举办一次,您可以在一年中的任何时候前来参观这里的博物馆,同时这里还有很多其它的活动,可以带您领略澳大利亚不同的内陆地区以及牲口驿站。

欲知更多内容,请访问droverscamp.com.au

派特•麦克弗森(Pat McPherson)是维多利亚州一名退休的护士。20世纪60年代,她是西澳金伯利地区Fitzroy 红十字会“澳大利亚内陆任务(Australian Inland Mission)”的一名护士。她定期会前往被她视为“内心故乡”的内陆地区。

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Polixeni Papapetrou最心仪的澳大利亚五大旅游胜地

Polixeni Papapetrou passed away in April 2018. We keep this post about her as a tribute to this courageous woman and acclaimed artist.

When photographic artist Polixeni Papapetrou chose her 5 favourite places to visit in Australia, they were not just travel destinations. They were landscapes that captured her imagination and inspired her to transform them into her art. Dramatically beautiful, they are insightful and unsettling works.

Her art provides us with a unique perspective on these landscapes.

Polixeni has said that in her work, landscape is another protagonist in the narrative.

Polixeni’s parents immigrated to Australia from Greece, and she was born and raised in Melbourne. She qualified and practised as a lawyer. But it was her intense and singular vision as a photographic artist that won acclaim and forged for her an Australian and international career replete with grants, exhibitions and awards. Her works have featured in over 50 solo exhibitions, and over 90 group exhibitions in Australia, the United States, Asia and Europe. They are held in private and institutional collections in leading galleries here and abroad, including the National Gallery of Australia, the National Gallery of Victoria, and the Museum of Contemporary Art, Sydney.

Polixeni and Lexi by Robert Nelson

Polixeni’s art has evolved through a series of themes.

Earlier works depicted the construction of identities through photographs of drag queens, body builders, clowns, circus performers, and Marilyn Monroe and Elvis Presley impersonators.

Subsequently and most notably, Polixeni created the series on childhood and its shifting meaning. Featuring her own children, Olympia and Solomon as they grew into adolescence, the series uniquely combined reality and imagination, nature and theatre, the benign emblems of childhood story-telling with an underlying sense of menace.

In later works, Between Worlds, (2009), The Dreamkeepers (2012), and The Ghillies (2013) masks and costumes worn by the children allow them to transgress boundaries – young to old, human to animal – and transform them into disruptive and unsettling figures in picture-perfect landscapes. As Polixeni describes it: “ I have these characters in my mind and like to find the habitat for them and then photograph them. For me it is about reconciling my inner world, possibly the unconscious to the real world.”

It was her son’s interest in the camouflage outfits named after Scottish gamekeepers and used in computer games and by the military, that inspired the stunning images of The Ghillies. Polixeni photographed Solomon wrapped in camouflage in the landscape. But in this series, instead of being hidden in the landscape, he seems to grow out of it.

Despite serious illness in recent years, Polixeni has continued until her death to create new series of works with the continued enthusiastic participation of her children and her husband, art critic and academic Robert Nelson.

 

WomanGoingPlaces is privileged to publish 4 works in the ‘Eden’ series. See below.

Polixeni’s Top 5 Places:

Polixeni_Papapetrou_The_Loners_2009

Polixeni Papapetrou The Loners 2009

Flinders, Mornington Peninsula, Victoria 

When friends invited us to their holiday home in the coastal town of Merricks, on the Mornington Peninsula in Victoria I was eager to go. I knew about the town as it is the home of the popular 1920s- built Merricks General Store and Stonier’s and Merricks Estate wineries (two of my favourite reds). I was enchanted with a site in Flinders, known as Bush Rangers Bay. The contrast of rural and the wild coastal terrain of Bass Strait makes for breathtaking landscape.

 

Polixeni Papapetrou The Shell Collectors 2009

Polixeni Papapetrou The Shell Collectors 2009

I have made numerous pictures at this location such as The Loners, portraying two elderly rabbits walking along the coast line framed by basalt cliffs, another of two horses enjoying the violin, three industrious pigs gathering straw at the site of the old quarry and a mother and son collecting shells on the coast. When making The Shell Collectors we were caught out by a rapidly changing tide and while the children scurried away in a flash, I had to gather my camera equipment before the encroaching waters carried it away to sea!  Nearby is the formidable Flinders Blowhole where if you dare you can walk on the rocks or even walk to the spectacular Cape Schank.

 

Polixeni_Papapetrou_Study_for_Hattah_Man_and_Hattah Woman_2013

Polixeni Papapetrou Study for Hattah Man and Hattah Woman 2013

The Mallee region 

VIC and NSW 

Mildura is a short plane trip from Melbourne, but I find the six hour long scenic journey by car one of the most relaxing drives in Victoria. As we progress through the drive, I love seeing the earth change colour turn from brown to a rich red. That is the signal that we have arrived in Mallee country, on which the beautiful stunted mallee tree grows. Before we reach our destination in Mildura to spend time with family friends, the         De Pieris who run the acclaimed Stefano’s restaurant and Mildura Brewery, we stop off at various locations to make work.

The semi-arid Murray-Sunset National Park is a must stop for me. The landscape is virtually untouched other than the site of the Raak Plain, an old gypsum mine which looks like an apocalyptic landscape. I made the picture called Study for Hattah Man and Hattah Woman on the Raak plains.

Polixeni Papapetrou Salt Man 2013

Polixeni Papapetrou Salt Man 2013

The landscape has a mysterious and ancient mood that I wanted to capture. I also love the Pink Lakes in the same park which change colour throughout the year. During Spring the lakes turn a deep pink colour and you can walk across them. I made the picture Salt Man on the Pink Lakes. The gorgeous pink coloured salt we have on our table at home is produced by the Murray River Red Salt Farm.

A short distance further from Mildura crossing the Murray River into New South Wales brings you to the town of Wentworth and the spectacular ancient site of the Perry Sand Hills. It was once a camping and hunting ground for Aboriginal people. As a result of the Ice Age, the area turned into sand dunes sculpted by wind erosion over thousands of years. As far as the eye can see, the area feels like a scene from another planet, acres and acres of shifting orange coloured sand dunes. I have visited this site a number of times to make photographs.

 

Polixeni_Papapetrou_Wild_World_2008

Polixeni Papapetrou Wild World 2008

Lake Mungo, NSW  

Another favourite destination is Lake Mungo, a significant ancient Aboriginal site, which was once  an Aboriginal fishing, hunting and camping ground. During the last Ice Age the water levels dropped and the lake dried up. Subsequent erosion of the land revealed human and animal remains as well as tools. The most spectacular discovery were 40,000 year old skeletal remains known as ‘Mungo Man’ and ‘Mungo Woman’. Walking on the dried lake has a moon-like eeriness about it.  The small museum on the site and the old woolshed are added attractions. Many visitors camp on the grounds, but as I can’t wear my heels camping we stay in the Lake Mungo Lodge.

 

Polixeni_Papapetrou_Hanging_Rock_1900_2006

Polixeni Papapetrou Hanging Rock 1900_2006

Hanging Rock, Macedon Ranges, Victoria 

As a teenager in the 1970s I was captivated by Peter Weir’s film, Picnic at Hanging Rock. Set on Valentine’s Day in 1900, a party of schoolgirls ventured out for a school excursion at Hanging Rock. Three of the party set out on a walk on the rock and were not seen again. The story of the three missing schoolgirls has become embedded in Australia’s cultural imagination to the point where people are surprised to learn that the account is a fiction. When I discovered that Hanging Rock was just outside of Melbourne, I hopped to and immersed myself in its mysterious history.

Polixeni_Papapetrou_The_Lantern_ Keeper_2012

Polixeni Papapetrou The Lantern Keeper 2012

The site itself is one of the world’s most extraordinary and significant geological formations. The Rock is a former volcano and is shaped into pinnacles created over 6 million years ago when lava rose through the earth’s crust. The magma that rose to the surface is only found in two or three other places in the world. It is a ghostly place, wild and chaotic and is a perfect backdrop to set the scene for my work portraying the ancient, spiritual wilderness of Australia.

I was moved to make a photograph about the three missing schoolgirls at Hanging Rock as well as making Magma Man and The Lantern Keeper as I could imagine my invented characters living there, hiding in the Rock’s many nooks and crannies.

 

Polixeni Papapetrou The Visitor 2012

Polixeni Papapetrou The Visitor 2012

The Victorian High Country (Mt Buller) 

When you mention Mount Buller, in Victoria’s high county, you immediately conjure up images of snow and skiing. I love to visit the mountain in the warmer months of the year, as working on-location is more comfortable and easier. The stunning snow gums at Mount Buller are also fully expressed in the warmer months and create pockets of natural beauty set against these spectacular mountains.

When we made The Wanderer, we arrived the day before and were surprised by sudden overcast conditions, a thunderstorm and a blackened sky. I despaired and thought that I would not be able to take photographs as planned on the following day. I resigned myself to having a holiday, but plans were once again changed when we woke up to a brilliant blue sky the following morning.

Polixeni_Papapetrou_The_Philosopher_2012

Polixeni Papapetrou The Philosopher 2012

Similarly when I made The Visitor during the Spring, a dampness descended on the mountain, which was atmospheric. I thought that I’d have days of this perfect photographic backdrop, but once again we woke to a clear sunny sky the following day.

 

I also made The Philospher at this location. The image reflects a person alone on the top of a mountain. It symbolizes the solitude of thought where the vastness of the landscape is the counterpoint to the intimacy of an internal world. It is an internal/external that we all struggle with. I love the way that the landscape in the High Country plays tricks on me.  We also love to visit the nearby town of Mirimbah, eat at the café, walk in Mirimbah Park and jump into the lake when it is hot enough.

 

Images in Eden Series

Travel Tips:

* If you are friendly with your neighbours, let them know that you will be away. Otherwise leave home in the dead of night! And don’t forget to put the dogs in kennels.

* Research the history of the areas that you are visiting. And take maps. Intuiting your way across foreign terrain is only great if you enjoy becoming seriously lost.

* Pack as lightly as possible as you always accumulate things along the way. Kidding yourself if you say that you won’t.  But always take plenty of water.

* A book goes a long way to relieving the boredom of travel.  Yes holidays can be a bit boring, but you can always attempt an interesting conversation too.

For more information about Polixeni Papapetrou see:http://www.polixenipapapetrou.net

Exhibitions

• MAMA Art Foundation Photography Prize, Murray Art Museum, NSW, 21 May – 7 August 2016

• Timelapse, Gippsland Art Gallery, Victoria, 24 May – 24 July 2016

•European Month of PhotographyAthens, Benaki Museum, Athens, 9 June – 26 July 2016

•Spring 1883, Windsor, Kalli Rolfe Contemporary, 17-21 August 2016

•Eden, Stills Gallery, Sydney, 31 August – 5 October 2016

•European Month of Photography, Berlin, 1-31 October 2016

•Beyond Eden, Monash Gallery of Art, Melbourne, 22 October – 2 December  2016

 

Photo of Polixeni Papapetrou by Robert Nelson

 

 

 

 

 

 

一年中的哪个时间去日本旅行最好呢?When Is The Best Time To Visit Japan?

 

一年中的哪个时间去日本旅行最好呢?

 

秋天

媛梦之旅团队选择秋天来日本旅行是因为在秋天我们可以欣赏到秋叶的美色。虽然今年日本的秋天比原计划来的晚了一些,但是我们还是在十一月份的时候看到了一些绝美的叶子。尽管天气变得越来越冷,我们在十二月上旬也还是看到了这些叶子的身影。北海道的叶子颜色变的要早一些,因为北岛的天气要比南岛更冷一些。

春天

因为能欣赏到樱花的美,所以春天的日本非常受游客欢迎。在春季,无数日本人及游客都会蜂拥至各个公园及花园 ,就是为了欣赏小路两旁的花海,淡粉、玫瑰红、以及白色的花朵交错陈列、美轮美奂。不过,真正的花季却会受天气的影响,所以与预期相比,开花时间可早可晚、很难预测。同时,花期也很短,所以很难说在你的路途中一定能够看到樱花绽放。

夏天

选择在夏天来日本游览有时会让你感觉不是那么得舒服。从六月开始一直到九月底,日本都是阴雨连绵、炎热且潮湿的。更糟糕的是,夏天是台风最恶劣的季节。

冬天

日本的各个滑雪圣地纷纷会在冬季出现在人们的视野中。对于那些想要在冬天来日本的人来说,这些地方日益受到他们的青睐。每年二月份在北海道的首府都会举行札幌滑雪节(Sapporo Snow Festival)。有了积雪和冰雕的助阵,这里俨然已经成为吸引游客的又一胜地。

 

请跟随我们下面的视频来欣赏日本美轮美奂,五彩缤纷的秋叶吧。